Lunching in Yallingup, Margaret River – November 2025

Lunching in Yallingup, Margaret River; winter migration options; Yallingup Forest Resort; honey, fig jam and the continued pursuit of coffee; why just lunching in Yallingup?; stalking Jack and Nannette; Aravina Wine Estate & Restaurant; loitering in Margaret River; organic wines at House of Cards; superb banquet at Chow’ s Table; kangaroo balls and other rude lollies; NY heads-up

Being a few hours’ drive south from Perth, the Margaret River region tends to be several degrees cooler and a couple of centimetres wetter than our home suburb of Iluka, just north of the city. And though our summer months – arguably November to April – are fabulous, winters in Western Australia can be longer than we’d like them to be.

The Margaret River region of WA is delightfully forest-y

Many locals, therefore, will take flight northwards, or to Bali where the hot weather is guaranteed. As a friend said the other day, a week in Bali for two – including flights, a decent hotel and world-class restaurants – will cost the same as three days in Margaret River. (Roughly from A$2,000.) And the journey takes about the same time: three-to-four hours.

Roy is less than keen on (a) flying to Bali, or (b) making the Groot Trek north by car to Exmouth or Coral Bay. But now, as summer was arriving,  he fairly happily agreed to three days in Margaret River.*

Note: When I think about my recent proposal for a getaway: (c) driving halfway across the Australian continent, through the Nullabor Desert to Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, I suspect Roy realised the was getting off very lightly. Hmm.

Parked at Aravina Estate, Roy has the look of a man who has got off lightly with something

Yallingup Forest Resort

And if you’re wondering why we ended up in the forests of Yallingup again, so soon after our January getaway to this area earlier this year (read about it here), it’s because I had left it too late to book suitable accommodation near the beach… at the Seashells apartments next to Caves Rock Hotel, for example, or at one of several options at Dunsborough.

 

Chalet no. 7 in Yallingup Forest Resort, called “Someday – North side” on booking.com

Luckily, booking.com led me to a two-bedroom (one bath) wooden, stilted chalet in Yallingup Forest Resort that turned out to be spacious and thoughtfully equipped. Generously separated from the other chalets by load of natural forest, it was good for morning walks – though too far to Yallingup Beach (about 6km away) to go by foot.

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In case you were wondering, I came back after my walk to buy the last remaining jar of fig jam, and put the required $9 in the cash box.

And then we drove to Dunsborough for a spot of shopping… but mainly to drink coffee once more at Yallingup Coffee Roasting Company, and also buy a couple of bags of beans to bring home with us. (They do deliver; click here for the website.)

Nice mural in Dunsborough, opposite the coffee roasters

Why Lunching in Yallingup?

As I have mentioned before, it’s not easy to find a good dinner out in the Margaret River region.  That’s because many of the better restaurants are located on wine estates, which often have cellar doors (like our favourite Vasse Felix) where you can taste and buy their wines, and they understandably concentrate on the lunch-time crowd.

Roy and I aren’t in the habit of lunching largely, but I can see how it could become a thing. What’s more, it’s healthier to have your main meal at midday. It’s also why we prefer self-catering accommodation… hotel food quickly loses its appeal.

Fortuitously, we were able to do a pre-lunch wine-tasting on both days:

Day #1: Aravina wines at Aravina Estate (natch); and

Day #2: House of Cards wines before lunch at its immediate neighbours, Chow’s
Table.


Day One – Aravina Estate

 

View of lake at Aravina Estate, Yallingup

Stalking Jack and Nannette

Might as well admit it – I was stalking Nannette and Jack. They were spending the week at a Dunsborough caravan park, about a 15-minute drive from our Yallingup accommodation, and I chose our dates so we’d coincide with them.

Anyhow, they suggested Aravina Estate for lunch. Deb and Blaine had taken us to Aravina in January this year, when the four of us converged on Lynn and Kim at their wonderfully rebuilt home-in-the-bush. (See here.) That time, we’d popped in at Aravina only to admire the landscaped gardens of this popular wedding destination, and to see its excellent Surfing Gallery – all covered in this blog post.


Prologue: Wine tasting at Aravina Estate

 

Lunching in Yallingup
Jack, Roy, Verne and Nannette – and that’s the entrance to the Surf Gallery museum behind us

Tasting happens in the big foyer, beyond the chubby Botero sculpture at the entrance to Aravina Estate. Bubbly Kelly from Kiwi-land presided over the corkscrew – no, not really: it’s all screw-tops Down Under – and explained that tasting up to six wines was thrown in for diners. (Otherwise, it’s $10 pp.)

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Sensibly dissuading ourselves from signing up as members (you commit to six bottles, three times a year), we ended up buying just two bottles of each of our tasting favourites: the 2024 Wildwood Reserve Chardonnay; and the  2022 Wildwood Ridge Reserve Stella BDX (a Bordeaux-style blend).


Lunch at Aravina Estate

Another good thing about lunching largely is that I get to photograph the food in daylight, which makes all the difference! Here’s a link to the menu: Aravina Menu


Day Two – House of Cards & Chow’s Table

Following Lynn’s recommendation, I wanted to do a tasting at Altair Estate, which she had described as “a newish winery” where they had met Josh Vince, a “young gun” winemaker. She also mentioned a yummy lunch at Chow’s Table, only a few kilometres away from Altair.

Instead of Altair, which will no doubt still be there when we visit the region again, we ended up driving into Margaret River town for a stroll up and down the main street and an excellent cup of coffee at Riversmith.

Lunching in Yallingup
That’s the Volvo, heading south to Margaret River

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Prologue: Tasting at House of Cards

Producing single vineyard, 100% organic wines, this award-winning winery was one we had never before visited.

Here is Megan, from Canada via Melbourne:

Megan from Canada, via Melbourne

And here’ s the tasting list. We so enjoyed the Queen of Diamonds Blanc de Blancs that we subsequently ordered it with lunch at the neighbouring Chow’s Table, and also brought a couple of bottles home with us.

Also for sale at House of Cards, this charming coffee-table book – Wine Dogs Australia – would make a lovely gift for the right person. It includes this memorable quote:

Everyone thinks they have the best dog. And none of them are wrong. (Attributed to W. R. Purche)


Lunch at Chow’s Table

Chow’s Table, right next door to House of Cards organic winery, has a light-filled interior and a large alfresco area

Fully embracing the spirit of lunching largely (that didn’t take long, hey!), we ordered the Banquet Menu (below).

From the first bite of crunchy achar through the rare wagyu skewers to the roast meat, mixed greens and fish curry, it was all delicious. Highly recommended!


Homeward Bound

One last recommendation is for a coffee stop on the way back to Perth – Midway Farm Stall in Pinjarra. Heading north, you’ll see the sign on your right, just after the big, commercial Midway fuel stop to your left.

Less famous and mercifully a lot less crowded than The Crooked Carrot, Midway Farm Stall has an obvious South African feel – what with the Afrikaans-sounding name Maasdorp, biltong, delicious house-made rusks and Maynards wine-gums, not to mention packs of mini Eet-Sum-Mors and other Bakers biscuits.

Stepping away from sugary temptation, I took the opportunity to stock up on some regeneratively farmed dorper lamb: a square-cut shoulder, a kilo of loin chops, and a kilo of lamb mince that will be perfect for either bobotie (a famous South African dish) or moussaka. All grass-fed, grass-finished and completely hormone-free.

Midway Farm Stall sells regen-ag beef and lamb, Pinjarra Bakery goods, preserves and much more – including barista coffee

Australiana postscript: rude lollies*

  • Lollies = sweets

Spotted inside Carbunup River General Store, where we stopped for fuel. Such a relief to see that they’re all gluten-free!


 


Up next?

We’ll be celebrating New Year in style in Singapore, not only with Paul and Salinah Baragwanath, but with the whole Campbell tribe (Ellie, Steve, Payton and Prescott) who will be coming all the way from California. Until then, a merry Christmas to you all!

If you like, take a look at the two recent posts on my other blog, Living Long & Strong with Verne and Roy – or simply go to vernemaree.com.

Splendid Lake Tahoe Weekend: Boating & Partying – May 2025

Splendid Lake Tahoe weekend: boating & partying; getting there: JSX flight to Reno, like catching a bus; liver punishment briefly postponed; Tahoe Beach Club; oysters and filé gumbo at Oyster Bar, Stateline Nevada; living it up on the lake with Eric and Renée; Steve, the Cold Plunge Hero of Emerald Bay; exactly why Fun Ain’t Easy; Vesper martinis to die for (or from); The Lucky Beaver and The Naked Fish; Lest we Forget add-on: Solo in Durban: my solo trip for Julie’s 60th Birthday; Up Next: Singapore and Bawah Reserve, Indonesia, yay!

Lake Tahoe Weekend

Our friends Ellie and Steve have a fabulous holiday home at Tahoe Beach Club on Lake Tahoe, Nevada. To surprise us while we were spending a week with them in California, they had booked JSX flights from Orange County’s John Wayne Airport – a small airport conveniently close to their Newport beach condo – to Reno, Nevada.

Boarding a JSX semi-private jet flight to Reno

Newport Beach, California, May 2025

Getting to Newport Beach, Orange County; Malibu still a no-go after 2025 fires; LA still a great big freeway; Roy’s Death Row birthday menu; ferry to Balboa Island; swilling Chablis at Circle Hook, sublime soft serve at Somi Somi, unphotogenic raclette at Basilic; palm tree trivia: feeble fronds and a dearly departed arborist; sublime casual dining at JOEY’s; lunch “on the beach” at Montage Resort, Laguna Beach; purveyors of boots and artichokes at San Juan Capistrano; huge thanks to our amazing hosts – next up, Lake Tahoe!

Steve, Ellie, Roy and a trio of Vesper martinis

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California Road Trip to Santa Barbara – Part Two

Road trip to Santa Barbara; Big Sur closed, and 16 miles of denial; the alternative: Salinas Valley, the salad bowl of the world; the Mexican at San Simeon; not visiting Hearst Castle; San Luis Obispo Bay – say that 10 times, quickly; the very big rock at Morro Bay; declaring a lucky day; my main problem with road trips; San Luis Obispo: two missions (church and café); Los Olivos, but alas no wine; Solvang, a little Denmark; beautiful Santa Barbara; Stearns Wharf and sausages; Derek at Joe’s Café, the world’s most generous – and ethical – barman; life-saving meatloaf and short-rib; Newport Beach, here we come!  

Prologue

This is a huge one! But I have managed to cover the whole of the rest of our Pacific Highway road-trip… so hang in to the end for some gorgeous pics of Roy and Santa Barbara. Here’s a preview:

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Big Sur Road Closure Denial

California Road Trip, May 2025: Part 1

California road trip to Monterey via Santa Cruz; preview of 3 theme parks; the road less travelled to Santa Cruz; subdued fun at The Boardwalk, Santa Cruz; On the Carousel… or not; and then we have an ice cream; lunch at Carmel-by-the-Sea; whisky and wines of the best; a visceral flinch; Old Fisherman’s Wharf, Monterey; smelly old sea lions; Osteria Al Mare; scenes from Cannery Row and a couple of Steinbeck quotes

For my previous post about how we got to San José to embark on this California road trip (spoiler alert: by train), plus some almost inconceivably lovely photos of Roy, click here.

To Monterey via Santa Cruz

Today’s sightseeing felt like visiting a series of three theme parks, albeit with very different themes. Here’s a quick preview:

#1 The first was an actual amusement park, The Boardwalk at Santa Cruz.

#2 The second was the almost impossibly cute town of Carmel.

#3 And the third was Monterey’s Cannery Row, themed around Steinbeck’s novel of the same name.

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Train to San José, California, May 2025

Train to San José: all aboard the Amtrak overnight choo-choo; dinner in the diner; dissing Reese’s and devouring Frank & Louie’s; Rock Me (un)Gently; stunning San José station; Santana Row and shopping

It’s an overnight journey of 19.5 hours from Portland, OR to San José CA. With a couple of hours to spare before our 2.30pm departure, we enjoyed the comfort of Portland Union Station’s Metropolitan Lounge. (Here is our Amtrak eTicket.)

Lured by the help-yourself drinks and snacks bar, I succumbed not only to the Reese’s peanut butter cups but also to Miss Vickie’s Jalapeño Kettle Cooked Chips. (Purely in the interest of cultural research, of course. Fortunately, though our local supermarkets in Western Australia do stock Reese’s peanut butter cups, I’m now relieved to know that they’re fairly yuck; definitely not worth the calorie and chemical splurge.)

Washington Coast, May 2025 Part 2: Ocean Shores to Oceanside

Washington Coast highlights: Close, but no seafood for us from Brady’s Oysters; coffee and donuts at Westport; an accidental lighthouse; oysters Southbend; fun and museums at Long Beach; sorrow, vituperation and f&$@-all of interest on the Long Beach peninsula; disappointment at Cape Disappointment; grim wenches at Hotel Shelburne (1906); Timberlands at Cannon Beach; rainy interlude with halibut cheeks at Oceanside

For my unmissable previous post on exploring the magnificent Washington Coast by car, click here.

First stop today on the way from Ocean Shores to Seaview was Brady’s Oysters at Bay City, near Westport. Beautifully signposted from Route 101, this would be a good spot to spend a lot of money on seafood, whether fresh, smoked or tinned. It is also a good spot just to use the restroom, and not to spend a lot of money on seafood.

Brady’s Oysters, Bay City Washington
Basking in sunshine at Brady’s Oysters

Washington Coast Part 1: Forks to Ocean Shores

Washington coast and the Olympian Peninsula, Route 101; Olympian National Park and Crescent Lake; Pacific Inn at Forks of Twilight fame; bones of the rain forest at La Push and Ruby Beach; clam chowder at Pacific Beach; Japanese whisky at serendipitous Seabrook; bleak beach at Ocean Shores; Canterbury Inn and the Oyehut Bay Grill

Recap, and the Olympic National Park

As you may remember from my last post (if not, click here), we comfortably coached it from Vancouver, Canada to spend our first night on US soil at Seattle.

From Seattle, Roy pointed the rental car in the direction of Washington State’s Olympic Peninsula. After a coffee-stop detour to picturesque Port Townsend (again, click here), we continued along the 101 to the relatively featureless Forks, apparently named for the forking of three rivers. (Forks is where the Twilight series was set, though only a few scenes were actually filmed there.)

Route 101 to Forks, through Olympic National Park

Seattle & Port Townsend, Washington State

By Cantrail coach to Seattle WA; one night good, two nights better; Pike Place Market; not anti-Starbucks per se; Mayflower Park Hotel and vesper martinis at Oliver’s Bar; seafood dinner at The Athenian; Travel Mode and padkos; heading to the Olympian Peninsula; delightfully historic Port Townsend; onwards to Twilight country: Forks and La Push

It’s not just trains and planes, boats bikes and cars that feature on Travels with Verne and Roy. Now it’s coaches, too!

Having kindly hosted us in Vancouver for ten days, cousin Brad and Ingrid dropped us off at Vancouver train station to catch the 11.30am Cantrail coach to Seattle. (Click here, here and here to see what a great time we had with them in Victoria B.C., Gabriola Island and Vancouver City respectively.)

The Cantrail coach leaves from outside Vancouver train station

There’d been various options for travelling from Vancouver, Canada south to the USA, and the coach turned out to have been a great decision. Around $55 each (half-price for those moderately advanced in years, thank you very much!), the four-hour journey was not only comfortable but excellent value, too.

What’s more, compared to the individual cars waiting in line to clear immigration at the US border, our coach – the only one at the time – completed formalities in double-quick time.

We were first off the bus for immigration (or rather, Roy was, me trailing in his febrile wake) and so first through a smooth and friendly immigration clearance from two nice young men.

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A Night in Seattle WA

In retrospect, two nights would have been better, in part because main attractions like Pike Place Market open only at 10am and start winding down mid-afternoon.

Seattle harbour view

Vancouver, May 2025 – Part 3: Vancouver City

Vancouver False Creek townhouse and marina; snot quotient obstacle; famously fit Vancouverites; downtown and the skytrain; no dogs allowed, but bring on the coyotes; inukshuk welcome; marathon supporters; A-maze-ing Laughter by Yue Minjin; uber-glam quintet in Morton Park; the club of clubs; the Sandbar never disappoints; Whistler day trip; most scenically situated Lululemon in the world; not just family, but new-found friends – thank you, Brad and Ingrid, for your amazing hospitality!

Sandbar, Granville Island, Vancouver City

My cousin Bradley and his lovely wife, Ingrid (scroll down for a great picture of them), have a beautiful townhouse that’s ideally located in Yaletown, right on the False Creek marina where he keeps his boat. They are the same my-cousin-and-his-wife who met us off the HAL Westerdam a few days ago and took us to their home on Gabriola Island. (Click here for that post, Part Two of three on Vancouver.)

Marinaside, Yaletown, Vancouver