Splendid Lake Tahoe weekend: boating & partying; getting there: JSX flight to Reno, like catching a bus; liver punishment briefly postponed; Tahoe Beach Club; oysters and filé gumbo at Oyster Bar, Stateline Nevada; living it up on the lake with Eric and Renée; Steve, the Cold Plunge Hero of Emerald Bay; exactly why Fun Ain’t Easy; Vesper martinis to die for (or from); The Lucky Beaver and The Naked Fish; Lest we Forget add-on: Solo in Durban: my solo trip for Julie’s 60th Birthday; Up Next: Singapore and Bawah Reserve, Indonesia, yay!
Lake Tahoe Weekend
Our friends Ellie and Steve have a fabulous holiday home at Tahoe Beach Club on Lake Tahoe, Nevada. To surprise us while we were spending a week with them in California, they had booked JSX flights from Orange County’s John Wayne Airport – a small airport conveniently close to their Newport beach condo – to Reno, Nevada.
Fresh off the boat in Victoria B.C.; an excess of polite wondering; extreme salubriousness at The Empress Fairmont; tiptoeing through tulips, around flower baskets and past the homeless and abject; marijuana debate; dinner at Il Terrazzo
After five days at sea, Roy and I were ready to disembark from HAL Westerdam and face the immigration process in Victoria, British Columbia, Canada. We’d been extensively coddled during our 28-day cruise from Sydney; now we were going to be looked after by my cousin, Bradley, and his wife Ingrid, South Africans who emigrated to Canada over 30 years ago.
(Click here for the first of my five posts on that Westerdam cruise… but please remember to come back.)
There’s nothing better than having family or friends living abroad, and it’s clear we’re going to have a fabulous time being shown their neck of the woods, as Brad put it.
Brad and Ingrid had to wait outside – in glorious sunshine, fortunately – while we gnashed our teeth in the long immigration queue. A single official was on duty. This is Canada, famous for niceness and courtesy, so there was a lot of polite wondering going on ahead of and behind us. After about half an hour of little movement, a second and more energetic young man clocked in, and things started to happen.
One night in Victoria B.C.
To my delight, my cousins had booked rooms for the night at the Fairmont Empress – their favourite – to give us a chance to see a bit of Victoria.
Cruise to Hawaii; Aliens, like me: immigration frustration in Hilo; walking it off; Michener’s Hawaii; Hilo Highlights tour; 3 days in Oahu; shopping Honolulu’s Ala Moana; ghastly strawberry guava jam and other sugary low-lights; Round the Island coach tour of O’ahu; upscale local fare at Fete in Honolulu’s Chinatown; walking to Waikiki, wow!; seen around the ship
Our first stop in the Americas! Fun fact: Hawaii is the 50th state – the 49th being Alaska and the 48th Arizona.
Cruise to Hawaii with aliens like me
Clearing immigration into the States was a most annoying exercise, as it turned out that physical visa-holders like me (only a handful of us on board, it seemed) did need an I-94 form, without which the officials declared we couldn’t be processed. (Non-pariahs like Roy, all of whom were on the e-visa system, simply filled in the visa-waiver form.)
Eventually, a clever woman with an even cleverer smartphone was apparently able to call up the entire USA immigration admin system, match my new visa photo to their records – which included a previous 10-year US visa that expired eight or nine years ago – and let me off the ship and into the country.
Reeds Bay Beach Park, with a view of the Westerdam
More South Pacific island destinations on HAL Westerdam; Suva, Fiji, the New York of the South Pacific; quick geography lesson; to buy suva-nirs, or not; dire deviation warning; museum curiosities: curiouser and curiouser; mindless beach day on Fiji’s Dravuni Island; Savusavu Fiji’s land rights and Roy’s pearl of wisdom; quasi-Christian coffee with a side of slavery; hot springs and directional inexactitude; Savusavu scenes; oops, and American Samoa!; octogenerian bladders and missionary zeal on a tedious tour
South Pacific Island Destinations:
Suva City, Viti Levu
Morning view of Suva port from the Westerdam
According to the port talk, Suva is grandiosely known as “the New York of the South Pacific”… and yes, it feels like a capital city, with its broad streets and solid, sometimes fancy colonial-style buildings.
Sugar City Lautoka… again; source of Fiji water; to market, to market; pathetic negotiator hits a luck with the tour touts; to Ba in Ram’s taxi; cultural tidbits; coffee, shopping and curry, in that order
I would like to start by pointing out the huge inconvenience of having two Fijian destinations with such confusingly similar names: starting with Suva, the second-largest city in Fiji; and Savasavu, a pretty harbour town. But that’s only coming up in Part Four. First, we take a look at Lautoka and Ba.
Two Days in Lautoka, Viti Levu Island, Fiji
Lautoka is Fiji’s second-largest city. (Suva is the largest.) It’s nicknamed Sugar City, as it’s in the heart of the sugar growing region. With its sugar mill built in 1903 that’s reminiscent of Durban Sugar Terminal, and its 19th-century history of indentured Indian labour, it reminds me a bit of my hometown.
Sugar cane fields along the road from Lautoka north to Ba
South Pacific island idyll; of cocktails and marbles; Nouméa, New Caledonia; awful offal – a narrow escape at the end of the world; Lifou, Easo Island; tenderly does it; Kanaks and their cocunuts; what happened to Port Vila; the hero of Mystery Island, Vanuatu
Hmm. Somehow, I’ve lost* my notes on New Caledonia – that’s Nouméa and Lifo (Easo Island), and on Vanuatu’s Mystery Island. So now, with just a few days to go before we disembark in Victoria, B.C., I really should crack on with at least a photo-blog of these three destinations.
There’s a chance that I’m in fact losing my marbles, and that I didn’t make the notes I so boldly claim to have made. If that’s the case, I put it down to cocktail befuddlement and freely blame Freddy and Ric for their diabolical skills behind the Pinnacle Bar. Anyway, I blogged quite fully about Nouméa and Lifou before during our 2018South Pacific cruise on HAL’s Noordam. (Find the link here. But come straight back.)
South Pacific cruise; pre-cruise plans: Palisade Hotel history, drinking, eating and sleeping; sailing away from Sydney; fabulous freebies onboard; storage ratios; lack of serious application on the drinking front; keeping it clean; onward to New Caledonia!
South Pacific Cruise – Part 1, Sydney and Sail-away
South Pacific cruise, HAL Westerdam in Sydney Harbout
With our 29-day South Pacific cruise to Northern America on the HAL Westerdam departing from Sydney Harbour, it was a good idea to fly across from Perth the day before and overnight at the heritage-listed PalisadeHotel in Miller’s Point in the Rocks area. From there, it’s just a five-minute walk down to Circular Quay and the Overseas Passenger Terminal.
Circular Quay, Sydney Harbour
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Hotel Palisade, Sydney
Overall, it’s a lovely little hotel. I like the way you come through the main bar on the ground floor, and they hand you your key without ceremony. (And with minimal service, to be honest.) We also loved the atmospheric Henry Deane Bar that wraps picturesquely around the fourth and fifth floors and has sweeping harbour views.
Designed by Irish architect Henry Deane
History
Rebuilt by the NSW government in 1915-16 after the bubonic plague outbreak of the early 1900s, it replaced an 1880-built hotel of the same name with a pub that was popular with wharf workers. Its architecture is described as Federation Free Style. After serving various social and community functions for nearly a century, including as a port of call for Anzac soldiers bound for Gallipoli, and a brothel (possibly not simultaneously), it was closed in 2008 for renovations and reopened in its current form in 2015.
Cheers to our travels! – from the Henry Deane Bar, Palisade Hotel.
View down the stairs from the 5th to the 4th floor of the Henry Deane Bar, Palisade Hotel, Sydney
Accommodation
Roy had booked the Noel Banfield suite on the third floor, with a fabulous view of the bridge. I appreciated the quirky décor, but agreed with my semi-disgruntled husband that they could and should have done a lot better for A$365 a night. (Eclectic is as eclectic does.)
Should try harder
How about a corner wardrobe to conceal the crass hanging frame and ironing board? How about cleaning the sofa upholstery, or replacing the ugly dining furniture with something more appropriate and less bulky? And updating the awkward free-standing air-conditioning unit cluttering up the rest of the dining/kitchenette area? It wouldn’t be difficult.
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Dinner at Jounieh
Dinner was at Jounieh, a nice Lebanese joint on the Rocks waterfront: several dips with pita, followed by delicious, slow-roasted lamb shoulder. Interestingly, Sydney prices for food and drink seem, if anything, a bit lower than those in Perth WA.
Dinner at Jounieh, the Rocks, Sydney
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Day 1 – Sail-away from Sydney Harbour
We’ve sailed out of Sydney Harbour before, but it’s still an exciting experience. Gloomily expecting to be laid low by the heavy seas lurking just beyond the safety of the harbour – I’m a terrible sailor, generally – I put my faith in the Travacalm ginger I’d stocked up on at Rocks Pharmacy the day before. Somehow, it worked! And no drugs involved.
By Day 2, the heaving seas were starting to ease off, but I kept up the ginger habit. So far, so good!
Storage ratios
Now to settle down into our comfortable stateroom and strategically divide the various shelves, drawers and other storage hidey-holes between us. The ratio here is roughly 2:1, Verne:Roy. Suitcases go under the bed, with room to spare.
Fabulous freebies
Roy had booked this Holland American Line Westerdam cruise a good two years previously. At that time, the promotional rate included one of the nicest staterooms at this level – located on Deck 7 aft with an unobstructed view of the wake from its bigger-than-average balcony. In addition, we have free wi-fi for the duration of the voyage.
Also included in the promotional rate was the Elite beverage package* that includes barista coffees, bottled Pellegrino, all soft drinks, cocktails, wine, beer, spirits etc. That allowed us 15 beverage items each per day, which we never came anywhere near exhausting.
(*Had we paid, it would have cost us over A100 each, per day!)
Must try harder
Clearly we don’t try hard enough. Pre-dinner cocktails at the Pinnacle Bar (see above pics) are our first alcoholic beverages of the day. (No, Roy wasn’t in dinner dress every night: he got tired of T-shirted fellow-passengers trying to order cocktails from him.)
Other passengers were, generally, considerably more conscientious, downing bloody Marys at breakfast to line their stomachs before laying down the lunchtime lagers. Over an afternoon game of Scrabble, cards or cribbage came the chilled Sauvignon, daiquiris and margaritas… especially for the small but dedicated band of smokers, huddled together under a blanket of haze at their Ocean View Bar hangout on the aft deck.
Keeping it clean
Laundry was not included in the fare, so we paid the extra US$305 for unlimited daily laundry and pressing. The alternative would be to pay a set rate for laundry by the bag; HAL ships don’t have laundry facilities, like the ones I had to use on the otherwise-splendid Viking Sun. (Yay. I hate those claustrophobic little rooms crammed with elderly ladies anxiously guarding their lingerie from theft on the high seas.)
Now, with clean clothes every day and relatively clear heads each morning, on to New Caledonia. See you there!
Bawah Reserve, dream private island destination; friends for life, and choosing them wisely; travel agents who slack on the job; the uneventful flight of the Panamanian refugees; gorgeous Tented Beach Suite; beach babe Roy; spa bliss and sunset cruising; table-dancing at Elang Private Residence; beef rendang, popcorn prawns and so much more; homeward bound via Singapore
If you like to travel in style to exotic locations, I seriously recommend you choose your friends wisely.
One of the huge advantages of living in Singapore from 2000 to 2016, when Roy retired from a lifetime in the shipping industry to become my full-time travel agent*, was the opportunity to meet an eclectic bunch of people from all over the world. One of these is Paul Robinson. Party animal and self-proclaimed friend for life, this is a man who takes friendship so seriously that he’s virtually turned it into an art form.
Friends for Life
We’ve known Paul for over 20 years, since those early days in Singapore. Formerly with Elite Havens, where he spent most of his time visiting and rating/reviewing upmarket accommodation in exotic locations (how does one get a job like that?), he’s currently COO of gorgeous Bawah Reserve. (Click here for its outstanding website.)
Florie and Paul Robinson, murdering a couple of after-lunch cocktails last year at Chijmes, Singapore
Before reading about beautiful Burgundy, please check out French Triangle Part One, where we said goodbye to our boat, Karanja; gorgeous gîte in Esbarres, near St Jean-de-Losne; homage to crossing the Channel on Karanja with David; flashback to cassoulet in Carcassonne; lamb shank and lavish scenery in Dole; by train to Dijon for lunch at Le Gourmand; onward to the Dordogne!
So, when we weren’t busy tearfully clearing our personal possessions off Karanja, prior to handing her over to her new owners at the St Jean-de-Losne Salon Fluviale, what were we doing? Exploring beautiful Burgundy while drowning our sorrows in duck-fat and Chablis, it would seem.
Goodbye to boating in France; dirty minds and a pretty map; shamelessly nostalgic Karanja flashback; 18 Pipers piping; celebratory sake with Masako and Yoshi; apéro, gorgeously Gorgonzola-ey pizzas and Toshi’s sushi; sterling beef tartare, and whitebait with too many eyes
For any dirty minds out there, no – this French triangle of which I speak is nothing nearly as exciting as a ménage á trois in a French farce. In fact, it’s mostly about the breaking up of the triangle that was Roy, me and our Dutch barge Karanja.
The last photo taken of us on Karanja, May 2023
In addition, it roughly describes the route from St Jean-de-Losne in Bourgogne, where we said goodbye to Karanja; southwest to the Dordogne to visit Roy’s sister Lyndsay and brother-in-law John; down to daughter Wendy in Provence; and back to Bourgogne.