Celebrating Moissac, September 2017

We’ve fallen in love with Moissac – the small town in the Tarn-et-Garonne department of the Occitane region of southern France that has become our new home for the European summer. We’ve just left our Dutch barge Karanja in Moissac port for the winter and migrated like geese to the Southern Hemisphere.

In case you were wondering, the pink umbrella installation in Moissac’s Rue des Arts appeared a few days ago in honour of Pink Ribbon October.

This isn’t our first time here. Exactly three years ago, Roy and I came to Moissac to do the boat-handling course and get the ICC and CEVNI qualifications that you need to navigate the inland waterways of Europe on your own boat.

The Dordogne, 6-9 September

Seven years ago, Roy’s sister Lyndsay and her husband John – two energetic, optimistic and successful entrepreneurs – bought an old house in Saint-Geniès, near Sarlat in the Dordogne. Transforming it into their dream home has been a labour of love, and for three days last week we were invited to share the dream with them.

Toulouse to Destination Moissac, 27-31 August

Last bit of Le Canal du Midi, then on to Le Canal de Garonne:

Hot and grumpy in Grisolles, electrical wizardry and magnificent munchies in Montech, chatted up in Castelsarassin, journey’s end in Moissac

It’s a long, long way to Grisolles

Tenderly, I asked my husband: “Do you still like boating?” It was a loaded question.

Under the scorching sun, sweating like a beast, he’d just hammered the second mooring pin into what sounded like concrete under the patchy grass. It would have been 35 degrees in the shade in Grisolles – had there been any shade. And my Roy does not like to be hot.

Canal du Midi, Week 2, 13-19 August

Marseillette; Cathars and cassoulet in Carcassonne; bam-bam-bam on the way to Bram; two nights in Castelnaudary

It was a long, long day from Homps (say “Omp“) – lock, double lock, double lock, stop for lunch before triple lock, and then the final lock at Marseillette, where we stopped for the night.

Joauarres lock on the way to Marseillette – nice and peaceful in this photo, only because I took it on my morning run before the 9am lock opening time…
More often on this stretch of the Canal d Midi, the locks look like this!

Canal du Midi: Week 1, 6-13 August

From Marseillan to Villeneuve-des-Beziérs, “wild”-moored at Colombiers, braving the low, low bridge in Capestang, Ventenac-en-Minervois, Homps

From Marseillan port, we set off at 8.30am back into L’Étang de Thau and to the start of the 240km Canal du Midi that will take us all the way to Toulouse.

Three Nights in Marseillan, 3-5 August

 

Marseillan is by far the biggest, most glamorous port we’ve visited so far, thronged with French and international tourists and lined with bars and restaurants. Best of all, we met up with new friends and made some even newer ones.

Day 1

This feels like the South of France! And yet we almost gave it a miss, turned around and left straight for the Canal du Midi. I’m so glad we didn’t.

Avignon to Frontignan, 31 July – 2 August

Petit Rhône, Canal du Rhône à Sète, L’Étang de Thau: 

Fourque-all mooring, screwed at Saint-Gilles, celebration in Carnon, hello l’Etang de Thau

About 13km from Vallabregues, the last lock on the Rhône, we entered the Petit Rhône.

Vallebregues, last lock on the Rhône River before we entered the Petit Rhône

Weekend in Avignon, 29-30 July

You’ll never get a better view of le pont d’Avignon than from the boat, warned Roy, so I snapped away.

Two points to clarify here: (a) it’s actually called Pont Saint Bénézet, and (b) though the people actually danced sous (under) the bridge, the words of the famous song go, “Sur (on) le pont d’Avignon l’on y danse etc.” (Not that we want to be anal about this, or do we, Roy?)

Lyon to Saint-Etienne-des-Sorts, 24-28 July

Rhône River: Condrieu, Saint-Vallier, Valance (l’Epervière), Cruas, Saint-Etienne-des-Sorts

After a quick round of the Carrefour at Confluence Lyon port, off we headed for our first day on the Rhône – two locks (one with a 9m chute, the other 6m), and a total of five hours. Differently from the Sâone, the Rhône has a specific channel that you (meaning Roy) have to watch for and follow. We had the famous mistral wind behind us, and a little bit of current.

Moored at Condrieu