A Tale of Two Villages – Wallingford and Crowmarsh Gifford

Along the Thames, it’s common for a bridge to immediately link two separate towns or villages, one of which is obviously more flourishing than its neighbour. Goring has Streatley, Pangbourne has Whitchurch, and Wallingford has Crowmarsh Gifford. (Sounds straight out of Harry Potter, doesn’t it?)

It would be rude not to at least take a stroll through the bustling metropolis of Crowmarsh, especially as we’re moored on its side of the bridge. Apart from boasting an impressive total of two builder’s merchants, the village is perhaps most memorable for:

  1. Having only one street, actually called “The Street”;
  2. Being the place where Jethro Tull (1674-1741) – the agriculturalist, rather than the band of Heavy Horses fame – perfected his revolutionary horse-drawn seed drill; his home from 1700-1710 is marked with a blue plaque.

The Queen’s Head: Review

Crowmarsh Gifford also has two pubs. The Bell having been almost universally damned to hell by TripAdvisor – “Don’t be mislead by the charming exterior” darkly warns TankGirlBec of Gloucester – we tried The Queen’s Head on a beautiful Friday evening. (We’d decided to forgive mein host, who’d turned us away at 11.55am because they only opened at 12 noon.”

I was very happy with my bacon-crusted rainbow trout fillet (£10) with new potatoes and buttered baby broccoli, and thought that Roy’s slow-roasted cider belly of pork (£13.50) was good and tasty, especially after he’d sent it back for reheating. A piquant apricot and apple crumble (£5.25) sweetened him up a bit; but, unfortunately for me, he still prefers (or says he does) my pork belly, and most other dishes, too.

But I really liked the Queen’s Head’s friendly service, its low, exposed beams, and its mellow ambience. I also appreciated the absence of fruit machines and TV screens broadcasting sport. And, once in a while, it’s nice not to know exactly how my meal was prepared.

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Verne Maree

Born and raised in Durban, South African Verne is a writer and editor. She and Roy met in Durban in 1992, got married four years later, and moved briefly to London in 2000 and then to Singapore a year later. After their 15 or 16 years on that amazing island, Roy retired in May 2016 from a long career in shipping. That's when I started Travels with Verne and Roy (travelswithverneandroy.com). For several summers, we explored the waterways of France on our beautiful new Piper Boats barge, Karanja. The rest of the year was shared between Singapore, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand and other wonderful places. After covid restrictions locked us down with family in Perth, Western Australia, we sold our Karanja. That was a bit of a wrench, but it did free us up for different adventures - road trips, ocean cruises and more all over the world. Now based in the lovely new home that we built here in Burns Beach, WA, we continue to address the joint bucket list while also revisiting our favourite destinations. Do come along for the ride!

    • Verne Maree

      Now I wish I’d taken a couple of shots of the Captain during his brief transformation last night to Karaoke King in the Boater’s Bar. His rendition of I Left My Heart in San Francisco brought the house down.

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