Mkuze in northern KwaZulu-Natal is the sort of place you might not choose to stop, but the decision was made for us. Our rental BMW’s info screen was warning of low tyre pressure – Roy suspected a slow leak – and we still had about 400km of N2 to go before our overnight stop in Ermelo.
No problem, as it turned out. Close to the Mkuze turnoff from the N2 we spotted a big Dunlop sign. A friendly, matchstick-chewing chap diagnosed the problem – an inch-long screw – and mended the puncture while we ate sandwiches in the air-conditioned customer waiting room. It took no more than half an hour and cost just R70 (S$7 or US$6) – about the same as the two sandwiches and two bottles of water from the Engen service station shop next door.
After passing through towns like Mkuze and Mkhondo (previously Piet Retief), the comparative affluence of Ermelo is a delightful contrast. It’s one of the main towns in Mpumalanga Province, what used to be called the Eastern Transvaal.
This is Afrikaner territory, and there’s arguably nothing more Afrikaans than vetkoek and koeksisters. Both are made from bread dough: vetkoeke (plural) are lumps of dough deep-fried in hot oil or fat, a bit like doughnuts, and are wonderful filled with curried mince. Koeksisters are made by plaiting three strands of dough together, deep-frying them in very hot oil until golden-brown, and then plunging them into an icy-cold syrup flavoured with lemon, cinnamon and ginger. They’re guaranteed to lower cholesterol and stabilise your blood sugar – and you can buy them in Ermelo.
What’s more, Ermelo has a Woolworths! – perfect, as I’d left an essential item of underwear back in Umhlanga. Some 20 years ago, my BFF Sally said she wouldn’t have to emigrate as long as Woolworths continued to exist. If you didn’t know, Woolworths is our version of Marks & Spencer: it’s where you buy your bras and knickers, and its food halls are stocked with top-quality produce. Well, not only does Woolworths still exist, it recently acquired top Aussie retailers David Jones and Country Road and seems stronger than ever. (And Sally is living happily ever after in Durban.)
If you are driving in deepest, darkest Africa, it’s gotta be a Toyota 4×4! Your only choice is between Hilux, Prado or Cruiser!?? Gail.
Oh dear, another flattie. Thank goodness for Woollies!