Parihoa Farm, NZ

With the sheep in New Zealand famously outnumbering people by about six to one, staying  on a working sheep farm was a superbly appropriate way to kick off our travels. Our friend Matt Chapman has over 400 of these lovely, woolly beasts at his farm (parihoa.co.nz) at Murawai Beach in North Island – about 66 times his fair share.

This is Roy’s and my first visit to the North Island of New Zealand. With only a week to go before we fly to Queenstown, South Island, there’s no way we can see everything – so we’re taking it easy. No point in rushing around, we reckon: we can always come back.

Coming over the last hill and starting the descent to the dramatic farmhouse with 4km-wide unblocked coastal views is a Grand Design moment.

It’s all systems go as we arrive: there’s a meeting about a wedding to be held here next week (Parihoa is becoming a popular wedding venue); someone is up on a ladder repainting the exterior wood; and a filmmaker is checking light and angles (a number of films and commercials have been shot here).

At the same time, four other friends have come over for lunch from nearby Waiheke Island; and our own friends Doug and Jenny Robinson from Singapore are visiting Matt at the same time as we are. It’s great to catch up with everyone.

The CEO of his own global headhunting company, ChapmanCG, Matt spends most of his time between Parihoa Farm (it’s just 45 minutes by car from Auckland’s airport) and his Singapore condo.

After lunch, we head off for a walk around part of the 600-acre property; that’s Matt in the red jacket, and the house is on top of the hill

As the website will tell you, Parihoa, just 40km from Auckland, is situated on 600 acres of grassy plains, native forest and wetlands and “hugs the high cliffs above the wild Pacific Ocean between the beautiful Muriwai and Bethell’s beaches”. It’s also very near the start of the Hillary Trail – a self-guided hike through native forest and along the wild coast of the Waitakere Ranges Regional Park.

You can get down to the beach – if you’re prepared to dangle from a knotted rope

You can get down to the beach by foot, if you’re prepared to negotiate a 100-metre knotted rope on the way. Much as I love a beach, I contented myself with the vista – an extravagant 4km sweep of unblocked views.

Matt’s two dogs from Singapore have adapted quite well to farm life, but still can’t quite get over the sheep

Ultra-fit Matt will be doing his seventh 250km desert ultramarathon later this year, in Patagonia. So, unlike the rest of us, he doesn’t breathe too heavily going uphill.  The two dogs were transplanted  from Singapore, not too long ago – that must have been a culture shock!

Picturesque animals, no?

If you can ignore the ubiquitous sheep and cattle shit – it’s composed mainly of grass, I remind myself – this is exhilarating hiking country. Sheep are picturesque in their own right, and tend to run off as you approach; not so the cattle, who were clearly not happy with us cutting through them one evening to go home by another way.

These are a lot more nerve-wracking than sheep; we had a couple of uncomfortable moments with them while taking a short-cut
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Verne Maree

Born and raised in Durban, South African Verne is a writer and editor. She and Roy met in Durban in 1992, got married four years later, and moved briefly to London in 2000 and then to Singapore a year later. After their 15 or 16 years on that amazing island, Roy retired in May 2016 from a long career in shipping. Now, instead of settling down and waiting to get old in just one place, we've devised a plan that includes exploring the waterways of France on our new boat, Karanja. And as Verne doesn't do winter, we'll spend the rest of the time between Singapore, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand - and whatever other interesting places beckon. Those round-the-world air-tickets look to be incredible value...

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