Viking Sun Cruise: Sydney to Durban – Part 3

From Perth’s port of Fremantle, it’s eight straight days at sea to Mauritius. Roy had been looking forward tremendously to the many sea days on this cruise – around 15 in total – and he wasn’t disappointed.

What can one say about eight days at sea? On Day One, the prospect seems endless… endless in a good way, if you’re a hardy sailor such as Roy; but if like me you’re already popping the Kwells and calculating whether your stock is sufficient to last all the way to Durban, it may not be an unalloyed delight.

Here’s how the Indian Ocean should (but doesn’t always) look

That said, after a couple of days of wind, high swells and general queasiness, I’m happy to report that the sun came out and the Indian Ocean unruffled its feathers, settled down and suddenly turned the mesmerising shade of blue that it should be.

Still, you might wonder what is there to do all day on a ship like the Viking Sun – apart from eating, of course. Plenty, as it turns out, and all laid out in the Viking Daily newsletter that’s delivered to your cabin each evening.

Yoga on the main pool deck, with instructor Linda magnified on the big screen behind her

At 8am each sea day, you would generally find me doing whatever fitness class was being offered by the gym crew (Linda or Anna) – be it yoga, Pilates or qigong – around the Main Pool; or perhaps aquarobics in the pool. (You will not find Roy there, oh no. You will find him in bed, reconstituting his cells.)

One of those ship secrets that you only find out by word of mouth: the bar on Deck 1 whizzes up delicious green juice (apple, spinach, kale, ginger and more) up to about 9.30am or whenever stocks run out

See the green juice above? I generally order two large glasses of the stuff – pretending one is for Roy; then I take them back to our room and drink them both.

If you start the day off right with green juice, you can indulge in a draft beer from Daniel at lunch time

Guest acupuncturist and TMC practitioner Dr Sohash, who was on board just for the eight-day crossing, gave a talk on Naturopathy and Acupuncture, plus several pranayama and meditation sessions that were much better.

Guest lecturers – some on board for the whole world cruise, others for a particular leg or legs of the cruise – give enrichment talks in the ship’s Star Theatre, not only on upcoming ports, but also on a variety of subjects of only possible interest. For example, the resident historian lecturer invited us to “Discover the World of the Romanov Rulers between the 17th and 19th Centuries”.

An Englishman called Robin Petch conducts a Wildlife Watch for a couple of hours each day at the Explorers’ Lounge, located at the front of the ship. Dolphin Man hasn’t had much luck with the Indian Ocean; his glory day was the stretch between Geelong and Adelaide, when hundreds of common dolphins accompanied the ship for a couple of hours. As we approach Durban, where he’ll be leaving the ship, he has promised (or threatened, depending on your attitude) to do a slide show of everything spotted since the ship left Miami.

Fashion anthropologist Charlotte Smith, guest lecturer Geoff Peters and his wife Leanne

By far my favourite enricher is the sweet and beautiful American Charlotte Smith, a “globe-trotting fashion anthropologist”  now based in Sydney. Hers is an interesting story:

After unexpectedly receiving the bequest of a priceless collection of 3,500 vintage designer garments from her Philadelphian godmother, Doris Darnell – the Darnell Collection – Charlotte sold her antiques business in Sydney and turned the unexpected inheritance into her life’s mission: studying fashion history, authoring several books, managing her ever-growing treasure trove and touring it around the world. Her ten lecture subjects included: the Little Black Dress, Colour in Fashion, Resort Wear, The Fabulous 50s, and more.

Crew members model vintage garments from Charlotte’s vast collection

Close Shaves

I’ve managed so far to steer clear of the dancing classes; one of them was line-dancing. Neither have I learnt to play bridge, nor boned up on precious stones at jewellery workshops hosted by the ship’s resident jeweller. Learn to Knit with Beverley sees dozens of worthy women (though not me) coming together in the Wintergarden to create stuff, including tiny baby garments – especially woollen hats – for donation to hospitals at our upcoming African destinations.

(Conveniently for the crafty, the Wintergarden is also where afternoon tea is served daily from 4 to 5pm.)

While at sea, we’re seeing fewer stage shows by the four Viking Vocalists: two guys and two girls from the UK, three of them pretty good but one chap truly abominable. (One night, he casually murdered the remaining two Beatles.)

Instead, there are shows by visiting entertainers. Among them have been: Will Martin, a Kiwi with a great voice and a winning act; guitarist Louie Shelton of Big Louie and the Wrecking Crew, a famous LA session group that played with the greatest names of the 60s, 70s and 80s; and Sydney stand up stalwart Darren Sanders. (Roy and I had dinner with him and his partner Robyn one night, which was fun.)

Between keeping fit on the jogging track on Deck Two, the treadmill and weights machines in the gym, and the wonderful spa; catching some sun at one of the two pools; catching a lecture in the theatre or a movie in one of the two cinemas; and snoozing with my Kindle on a comfy lounger, the days slipped by happily.

Singing with the ship’s band at Torshavn nightclub are two fantastic Filipinos – Patricia and Arar – and we did quite a lot of dancing there.

I could never tire of this view over the rear pool deck and its infinity pool…
Okay, let’s include this picture but make it quite a bit smaller

Sea days are also an opportunity for specially themed meals at the World Café – for example Indian, Greek, Italian, German, French, Chinese, Vietnamese and Indian – usually with a live station doing something special, such as foie gras for the French dinner.

Just the bread station at the special poolside brunch – phenomenally good

Then came a poolside brunch that pulled out all the stops. Anything that kicks off with mimosas, bloody Marys and killer coconut cocktails served in the shell is going to be a winner.

The first Bloody Mary…
… potentially of many
I missed out on this live station frying up lobster, because I’m too lazy to stand in line for food
Just some of the wait staff and chefs – they did a fantastic job!

Over the weeks, we met a lot of people – be it in the launderette, at The Restaurant, at the Explorer’s Bar before dinner, in the spa or at the pool. Some were almost immediately forgotten (embarrassingly), but others stuck, in a good way: Canadians Ilene and Barry; Americans John (the pilot) and Helga; Sydneysiders Gay and John; Linda from Yorkshire and Ingrid from Vancouver; Lynn and Jim from Hawaii and California, and several more.

I promise to add a couple more posts to complete this series – on Mauritius, Madagascar and Mozambique. Right now, however, we’re cruising south from Maputo to Durban where we’ll be disembarking tomorrow morning along with over 300 other passengers, the other 450-odd being world cruisers who will continue on to London.

Cruise Blues?

People are warning us to expect an onset of cruise blues when reality hits, usually a couple of days after getting home. This, they say, is brought on by withdrawal from the luxuries that you’ve quickly become accustomed to: being waited on hand and foot; your cabin cleaned twice-daily and your sheets and towels daily; the constant availability of whatever sort of food or drink you might fancy, without your needing to lift a finger; access to a fabulous gym and a superb spa just an elevator-ride away, just for starters.

And they’re probably right. Nevertheless, after 28 days at sea, I’m ready to come ashore and go home. After that, bring on the next adventure in Travels with Verne and Roy!

 

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Verne Maree

Born and raised in Durban, South African Verne is a writer and editor. She and Roy met in Durban in 1992, got married four years later, and moved briefly to London in 2000 and then to Singapore a year later. After their 15 or 16 years on that amazing island, Roy retired in May 2016 from a long career in shipping. Now, instead of settling down and waiting to get old in just one place, we've devised a plan that includes exploring the waterways of France on our new boat, Karanja. And as Verne doesn't do winter, we'll spend the rest of the time between Singapore, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand - and whatever other interesting places beckon. Those round-the-world air-tickets look to be incredible value...

  1. Vickir888@gmail.com

    Loving reading about your trip ??. Sounds wonderful! I love long cruises with lots of days at sea. Will investigate this line as like their style.

  2. Charlotte Smith

    Absolutely wonderful to meet you Verne. This blog and your photographs helps me relive that extraordinary Viking Sun cruise. And yes – I’m still going through ‘cruise blues’. Looking forward to meeting up with you and Roy again soon.

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