On our way to England, Roy surprised me with a classy castle stopover on the outskirts of Orléans
The visa run to England is for me, of course. My Schengen visa allows me only 90 days in Europe in any 180-day period, so I had to use my UK visa to get out of Europe for a couple of weeks so as not to overstay my official 90-day welcome. (With Brexit due to take effect on 31 October 2019, Roy could be in the same boat next year.)
As the map shows, it’s a long drive in the Renault Twingo to the UK via the Eurotunnel from where we left our boat Karanja in Moissac. We broke the journey in style at Chateau La Touanne, near Baccon, in the area of Orléans.
The noble Nicolas and Christine d’Aboville tell us that this fabulous property has been in the family since 1670. From the walls of the elegant ground-floor drawing rooms, the Bigot family ancestors gaze down serenely.
Our gorgeous upstairs room upstairs has creaking floorboards, ridiculously high ceilings, a comfortable bed, and an ensuite with a huge and thankfully 21st-century bathtub.
We can open the windows, says Nicolas, but only after turning off the lights for the night – “Otherwise, bats may fly in.” (Why do I suddenly lose all desire to open the windows?)
Breakfast the next morning was a generous spread, especially for France. Unusually for France, Christine even offered us a boiled farmyard egg that arrived perfectly done.
Château La Touanne has five chambres d’hôtes, at a reasonable €120 per night.
Beaugency village
Dinner is not served at the château. Instead, Nicolas recommended one of several restaurants in the picturesque village of Beaugency, 12km away.
Review: Made in Loire, Beaugency
We loved Made in Loire (12 Place du petit marché), a combined restaurant and deli that specialises in local fare.
Roy’s fish pâté was good, but my baked asparagus starter was better. I went on to have the beef carpaccio, sautéed potatoes and salad; he had a creamy chopped chicken breast dish. Choose a wine from the shelves behind you, said the man – we spotted a Pouilly Fumé (€19, plus €5 to drink sur place rather than take away), and drove back to our castle in a glow of satisfaction.
