What makes a village one of Les Plus Beaux Villages en France? Believe it or not, there’s an official list – even an independent association. Our friend Anne, who grew up in in the area, recommended we take a drive with daughter Wendy to Auvillar, about 20km by Twingo from Moissac.
The old Occitan market town with its river port was picture-perfect on this hot and sunny afternoon. So I did my “Japanese tourist” thing (according to Wendy), and here are the results.
Built in the late 1600s (in the time of Louis XIV) to replace the original fortified gate, the clock tower (below) welcomes visitors to Auvillar; it also houses a waterway museum. Its bell strikes the hour.
Potted History of Auvillar
– Initially, Auvillar was a Gallic-Roman town.
– In the 10th century, it was invaded and then fortified by the Normans.
– In the 11th century, it became the home of a viscount.
– In the 14th and 15th centuries, it belonged to the Counts of Armagnac.
– After the arrival of Henri IV (yes, the Shakespeare one) in 1589, the town became attached to the Crown of France.
– The 100 Years’ War and the Albigensian Crusade damaged much of the town and destroyed its chateau.
– After that, Auvillar became an important port, famous for quill-making and ceramic pottery that was mainly exported to French colonies; this trade endured for some 200 years before sinking into a slow decline.
Today
Each year, little Auvillar receives thousands of visitors, among them pilgrims: it’s a recognised stop on the route to Saint Jacques de Compostella in Spain from Le-Puy-en-Velay.
The Halle (below) dates from only the 1830s, but is famous for its unusual circular design featuring elegant Tuscan columns, and a grain measure built with stones from medieval times.
The main square (below) – which is in fact triangular – is lined with residences built by affluent merchants in the 17th and 18th centuries. Its shady, arch-lined walkways are called corniéres.
The evocative Church of Saint Peter’s original 12th century chapel was added on to in the 14th century, after which is was variously damaged and restored in the course of multiple wars and invasions over the next four centuries.
Exceptional views from Auvillar over the Garonne valley, below.
Fascinating stuff. Thank you for sharing which spurred me on to drill down in Wikipedia on Cathars, Albi and Toulouse Lautrec. You must take the Captain to Albi, which is a World Heritage site, with a spectacular bridge and a sumptuous cathedral. Become our special correspondent and explore the Albi cuisine at the same time. Mercy buckets.